Doug runs first 5K!
My daughter, Allison says to
me in April, "Hey Dad.
Let's spend Father's Day together at the Pearson International
Airport". "Great"
I respond, thinking about a nice time watching the planes landing and
taking off. Little did I know
she entered me in a 5K Run for Charity.... Yikes! .... I have never run
300 feet in a straight line in my life!
But, after
two months of gruelling training (she is a tough Coach), we did it! I ran it in 30:52 -placed 11 out of
18 in my class. Thanks, Allison.
Water-Saving Tips for
Your Lawn and Garden
In the summer months, municipal
water use doubles. This is the season when Canadians are outdoors watering
lawns and gardens, filling swimming pools and washing cars. Summer peak
demand places stress on municipal water systems and increases costs for
tax payers and water users. As water supplies diminish during periods
of low rainfall, some municipalities must declare restrictions on lawn
and garden watering. By applying some handy tips, your lawn and garden
can cope with drought conditions and you can minimize water wastage.
General
Tips
Much of the summer peak demand is
attributed to lawn and garden watering. Often water is applied
inefficiently, resulting in significant wastage due to over watering,
evaporation or run-off. Here are some general watering tips to help
avoid wastage:
- Before watering, always take
into account the amount of water Mother Nature has supplied to
your lawn or garden in the preceding week. Leave a measuring
container in the yard to help you monitor the amount of rainfall
(empty it once per week) and follow the tips below to help
determine how much water to add. Also bear in mind any watering
restrictions that may apply in your municipality.
- Water in the early morning,
before 9 a.m., to reduce evaporation and scorching of leaves from
the sun. Water on calm days to prevent wind drift and evaporation.
- Set up your sprinkler or hose to
avoid watering hard surfaces such as driveways and patios. If
you're not careful, it's water and money down the drain.
- Water slowly to avoid run-off
and to ensure the soil absorbs the water.
- Regularly check your hose or
irrigation equipment for leaks or blockages.
- Collect rainwater from your
roof in a rain barrel or other large container and keep it covered
with an insect screen. Direct the down spout of your eavestroughs
into the rain barrel.
- Choose an efficient irrigation
system. A soaker hose placed at the base of plants on the ground
applies water to the soil where it is needed — rather than to the
leaves — and reduces evaporation (see Figure 1).
Drip or trickle irrigation systems are highly efficient because
they deliver water slowly and directly to the roots under the soil
surface. This promotes deeper roots, which improve a plant's
drought resiliency. If you use a sprinkler, choose one with a
timer and that sprays close to the ground.
Figure 1: Soaker hoses have tiny pores that emit water slowly and
directly to the soil. Place them at the base of plants on the ground.
Tips
for Your Lawn
Established lawns1
generally require about 2.5 cm (1 in.) of water per week to thrive.2
If Mother Nature is providing this amount of rainfall, your lawn will
thrive without supplemental watering. When rainfall does not provide
adequate moisture, your grass may start to turn brown. This does not
mean it is dead — it's simply dormant. An established lawn will recover
and resume its green appearance shortly after sufficient rainfall
returns.
Apply these tips to save water and
money without compromising the health of your lawn:
- Apply about 2.5 cm
(1 in.) of water not more than once per week and skip a week
after a good rain. The correct amount can be estimated by placing
an empty tuna can on your lawn as you apply water evenly across
the surface. When the water level reaches the top of the can,
you've applied about 2.5 cm (1 in.) of water which is
all your lawn needs. You can time how long it takes to reach this
level, then set the timer on your sprinkler.
- Water thoroughly. Deep
watering at this rate is better than frequent, shallow watering
because it encourages deep roots.
- Don't water your lawn
excessively. When it's waterlogged, it may turn yellow and develop
fungus and diseases. Oxygen and mineral uptake may be restricted
on heavy clay soils. Too much watering can also lead to thatch and
fertilizer leaching.
- Check with your municipality
to see if watering restrictions are in effect.
- Avoid mowing and unnecessary
traffic on your lawn when the lawn is dry or dormant.
- Don't cut your lawn too short.
Set the blade on your lawn mower to cut no lower than 6 to 8 cm
(2.5 to 3 in.) so that the roots are shaded and better able to
hold water.
- Aerate your lawn once a year
in the early spring or fall to improve water penetration.
Afterwards, top-dress by applying a thin layer (max. 15 mm —
0.6 in.) of organic material and rake to distribute evenly. You
can overseed after this to help thicken the lawn.
- A thick, vigorous lawn is the
best prevention against weed invasions and can better withstand
heat and dryness. A healthy lawn needs nutrients, such as
nitrogen. Application rates, sources and timing will depend on
many factors including soil type. As a rule, a healthy lawn with
good soil needs about ½ kg (1 lb.) of nitrogen per
100 sq. m. (1,075 sq. ft.) of lawn area every
year. Leave grass clippings on the lawn to return nitrogen to the
lawn, and reduce moisture loss.
1 Newly seeded
or sodded lawns have greater water demands.
2 Actual water requirements depend on
individual conditions, such as soil type.
Tips
for Trees, Shrubs and Flower Gardens
Here are some water-saving tips for
trees, shrubs and flower gardens:
- Direct water to the root
system. In the case of trees and shrubs, the roots that take up
the most water are generally located within the top 30 cm
(12 in.) of the soil and near and even beyond the drip line.
This is the area directly below the outer tips of the branches.
- Plants have different watering
requirements at various stages of their growth. Keep soil moist in
the first growing season. One rule of thumb is to water trees with
a one-hour trickle using a soaker hose at least once per week,
barring a good rainfall and more frequently during hot weather.
Taper off watering in the fall. In the second growing season,
water twice per month in late spring and summer. Once established,
trees that are well-selected should require little or no watering
other than that provided by rainfall, but ensure they get adequate
watering during periods of low rainfall or drought. Actual water
needs depend on factors like soil type and species.
- Water perennials and vines
well in the first growing season after planting. One rule of thumb
is to water with a one-hour trickle at least once per week using a
soaker hose for the first three weeks, barring a good rainfall,
and subsequently during hot dry weather. Afterwards, perennials
selected to match site conditions should need little or no
supplemental watering. If you notice wilting or browning on your
perennials, water to a depth of 10 to 20 cm (4 to 8 in.)
to help restore the plant's turgidity and vigour.
- Apply a layer of mulch about 5
to 7.5 cm (2 to 3 in.) deep over the soil surface of the
garden to retain moisture, moderate soil temperature, control
erosion and suppress weeds. Wood chips, bark and crushed rock are
just a few of the materials that can be used as mulch.
- Use a soaker hose placed at
the base of plants, rather than using a sprinkler. This will help
to apply water to the soil and roots — rather than the leaves —
and reduce evaporation (see Figure 1).
- Grass under your tree competes
with the tree's roots for water. Remove the lawn and apply mulch
instead which helps to retain water.
Designing
a Water-Efficient Garden
You can create a lush, colourful
garden, like the one in Figure 2, that requires little maintenance or
water by applying the seven principles of xeriscaping — an approach to
designing landscapes so that their water requirements correspond to
local climatic conditions. While these are sound principals for any
garden, they are particularly useful if you live in a region with low
rainfall or that experiences water shortages.
1 — Design for your site and
your needs
Sketch your lot including property
lines, buildings, driveways and features that will remain. Add trees,
shrub and flower beds, lawn areas, patios, decks, etc. (see Figure 3).
Consider the specific conditions of your yard, taking into account that
water requirements will differ in shady versus sunny spots, and slopes
versus flat areas or depressions. Moisture availability for your plants
will also differ according to your soil type. Sandy soils drain water
whereas clay soils hold water. Some places, such as narrow side yards,
may be hard to water.
2 — Group
plants with similar water needs to make watering more efficient
Shrubs and perennials should be
grouped together in mulched beds. Trees should also be clustered in
mulched beds rather than isolating individual specimens in lawn areas.
This will help to reduce moisture loss and competition.
3 — Amend the
soil
First, find out what type of soil
you have and improve its water retention capabilities accordingly, for
example, by adding compost or other organic materials.
4 — Size your lawn area to
meet your practical needs for play and traffic
Avoid many small or narrow lawn areas in favour of a consolidated lawn,
to make them easier and more efficient to water. For primarily visual
areas, consider water-efficient ground covers, perennials or shrubs.
For foot-traffic routes or narrow spots, such as side yards, a
permeable inert surface such as wood chips or natural stone requires no
water.
5 — Choose
plants that are well suited to your climate and site conditions
Consult your local garden centre or
the references at the end of this article to find plant lists. Know
your site including its soil types. In shady areas, use shade-tolerant
species or consider a woodland shade garden. In sunny spots, use
drought tolerant, sun-loving species or consider a wildflower meadow.
Drought tolerant species should be used on rapidly-draining slopes
(avoid turf grass), but you can consider moisture-loving plants in
depressions or low spots. For a water-saving lawn, choose a species
best suited to rainfall levels in your region. Low-maintenance lawn seed
mixes are commercially available. Check your local seed companies or
garden centre. For more information, consult CMHC’s About Your House
fact sheet Low-Maintenance Lawns.
6 — Use mulch
Refer to Tips for trees, shrubs and flower
gardens.
7 — Use an efficient
irrigation system and appropriate maintenance
Follow the tips listed in the
previous sections.
Figure 3: Sample xeriscape with meadow
and low-maintenance lawn
Other
Outdoor Activities
Lawn and garden watering is not the
only outdoor activity contributing to summer peak demand. You can lower
your water bill and relieve the burden on municipal water supplies by
doing the following:
- Use a broom instead of water
to remove debris from paved surfaces such as driveways.
- Use a bucket and sponge to
wash and rinse your car, instead of a hose.
- Cover swimming pools when they
are not in use to reduce evaporation.
Read
more about it at: www.MonettTEAM.com
Canadian Homeownership Rising
as Seniors Stay Home
by Jim Adair
June 22, 2010
The age at which you're most likely
to own a home in Canada? You might think it's about 50, when your
earnings are at their peak, but it's actually age 65 – more than 75 per
cent of Canadians are homeowners at that age. But those seniors are not
selling off their houses and moving to retirement. The rate of
homeownership stays about the same and may even increase a little until
age 75, when health or financial issues generally prompt seniors to
sell their homes.
A new study
by Feng Hou at Statistics Canada says, "The pattern of
homeownership after age 65 is consistent with the hypothesis of a
'ratchet effect' in housing: households tend to adjust their house
consumption upward but seldom reduce it. One implication of this
pattern is that there is not likely to be a spike in the demand for
rental housing and a massive increase in the number of houses for sale
as the annual population reaching age 65 rises from 320,000 to 570,000
within the next 20 years and the size of this population gradually
levels off." Hou says most boomers will likely keep their houses
for at least 10 more years after reaching age 65.
The study used data from eight
Canadian censuses conducted between 1971 and 2006 to see when in their
lives most Canadians are homeowners. It found that age continues to
rise. Seventy-three per cent of those born in the early 1910s were
homeowners, compared to 78 per cent for those born during the Second World
War. And based on current trends, since those born in the 1950s are
already ahead of earlier generations when it comes to homeownership, it
looks like the number of senior homeowners will climb to about 80 per
cent, says Hou.
Another international study shows
that Canada isn't unique in having large senior homeownership numbers.
The study, by Italian researchers Tullio Jappelli and Maria Concetta
Chiuri, says homeownership in Canada falls more in the 65 to
80-year-old age group than in the U.S. and the U.K. But Hou says this
finding was based on those born in the late 1910s and early 1920s, and
"is not consistent with subsequent cohorts, where there is less
sign of a decline – perhaps resulting from the higher lifetime earnings
of these groups."
Hou says that between 1951 and
2006, the life expectancy of Canadians increased by 12 years, so a
person aged 65 could, on average, expect to live for another 20 years.
With that longer life expectancy has also come more financial
stability. Since 1976, full government pensions have been available to
those 65 and over, and private pension funds have also become common.
It's easier for seniors to maintain their homes or purchase a new home
than it was in the past.
"Since the 1980s,
homeownership among seniors has risen gradually; this likely reflects
the rise in family incomes, particularly at the bottom end of the
income distribution. The low-income rate among seniors aged 65 and over
declined from 30 per cent of this population in 1980 to 14 per cent in
2005 as a result of the increased direct effect of government transfer
income," says Hou's study.
Homeownership generally has been
rising for households where the head (whoever pays the bills) is over
age 20. From 1971, the ownership rate rose from 60 per cent to 69 per
cent. The study found that homeownership rates rise quickly before age
40, and then continues to climb but at a slower pace before it reaches
a plateau near age 65.
People who have children are more
likely to be homeowners than those who don't. Single parents are more
likely to be homeowners than single people without children, but income
plays a big factor – single women with children have a low ownership
rate because of their low average income.
Some other interesting facts to
come from the study:
- The rate of homeownership of
those aged 20 to 34, in the highest income group, has grown from
12.5 per cent to 60.4 per cent in the last 35 years. Couples with
children in the same age and income group have increased ownership
levels from 65.4 per cent to 93.6 per cent.
- People aged 20 to 24 are
living with their parents longer. "Over the last 35 years,
more people in this age group lived with their parents," says
the study. "The share of people in their early 20s living in
owner-occupied homes rose from 31 per cent to 56 per cent for
women and from 52 per cent to 66 per cent for men." This
trend of adult children living with their parents is highest in
high-income families.
Read
more about it at: www.MonettTEAM.com
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